Successful Painting Tools and Techniques

Successful Painting Tools and Techniques

This is a four piece series on painting tools and techniques. Here in the first part I will examine masking and protective gear. Later in part 2 I’ll examine ladders and scaffolding and in part three I’ll talk about brushes and rollers. Finally, in part 4 we’ll look at sprayers, caulk guns, wire brushes, braces and knee pads, and swivel hooks.

The painting industry has made tremendous strides in the last decade. Today there's a tool for almost every situation. Even I'm impressed by the ground breaking devices coming on the market, for example, dripless caulk guns, that have solved a messy problem.

Before you start your project, have a minute to check your equipment. You'll probably need to fill up on several items. Make a complete list of what you need. Keep an eye out for tools that save time and labor. The more costly equipment, such as sprayers and scaffolding, can be rented.

Top Rated Protective Gear

Some people don't believe it's necessary to wear safety gear when they're painting. I guess they think it's wimpy. But I've performed around enough toxins to comprehend how dangerous they could be. Dust, painting mist, and vapors impact the lungs very quickly, and skin pores are an available target for solvents and dust borne particles. Don't be foolish... protect yourself.

Challenges Of Respirators

A particle mask is better than almost nothing, but it generally does not form a good seal and it won't filter out all the dust. If you do use a particle face mask, get one with double rubber bands. A damp handkerchief tied around your face gives better safety than particle masks that use lightweight rubber bands.

Double cartridge respirators are the safest solution. They'll provide you with the protection you'll need for most vapors, mist, and dirt. Respirators come in three sizes. Make sure that yours fits. If it generally does not fit well, it will not work very well. Checking the fit of a respirator is like examining the seal of a diving mask. Breathe then hold your hand over the side valves. The mask fits if it presses against the face and remains there while you hold your breath. Good respirators cost from $25 on up and usually include replacement filters. Double cartridge respirators have color coded filters for different impurities; check that you have the right filtration for the job. Make sure to read the instructions, and remember that you should change the cartridges if deep breathing becomes hard or if you begin detecting vapors.

Learn About Protective Clothing

Respirators execute a good job of protecting your lungs, but you need to protect the rest of the body as well. Having been authorized in lead abatement, I understand that your body can only just eliminate a very small ratio of lead, even over a 30 year span. Many painters make the mistake of thinking that a little contact with particles or VOCs won't damage them, but it all adds up over time. I always dress for protection, keeping at least one good Tyvek painting suit on the job. Tyvek breathes well, weighs little, and provides good protection. The extra layer is a little warm, but I'd rather wear a paint suit than be covered with dust or overspray (on a hot day be sure to drink a lot of water to prevent dehydration). If you choose not to invest in a painting suit, wear clothes that you won't mind turning into something resembling a painting palette.

I almost always wear leather gloves, even though I'm brushing. They keep my hands clean and my grip dry. I take two pairs of gloves if I'm painting more than one color, to ensure I don't contaminate the colors. Commercial strength rubber gloves are another must. I wear rubber gloves to stain, to wash out brushes, sprayers, and rollers; to open, mix, and strain paints; and handle toxins such as paint thinners.

Rounding out my paint anywhere clothing are safety glasses or goggles to keep chips, dust, and spray mist out of my eye, and, if I'm spraying, a hood. If you spray with out a hood, be prepared to spend tons of time washing paint out of your hair.

Fast And Easy Masking

Usually the area you're painting will have a finished floor or carpet and the proverbial ounce of prevention can save the day. Even if you're only painting one inside home window, masking the floor is a good idea. Having an open can of paint makes me stressed if there isn't a drop cloth on the floor. I've learned the hard way. Masking becomes even more important if you're staining, because stain spatters all over the place. Several simple items can save you a lot of touch up, cleaning up, and attempting to get paint from the carpet before your spouse sees it. Before I finally quit and admitted that my approach wasn't perfectly right and dripless, I spent more time touching up than I should have. Touching up is a fact of painting life, but these days I do significantly less of it because I take time to mask.

First, you need a drop cloth. Heavy cloth is often best, but drop cloths don't have to be expensive, professional painter's cloths. You can sometimes find pretty large drapes at thrift stores, for the cost of one thin plastic drop cloth. Search for drapes with vinyl backing, for added waterproofing. I cut out the top stitching for an additional 3 inches of material.

The difficulty with plastic drop cloths is that they weigh next to nothing and billow everywhere. Plastic material works best when you can find 3 foot wide paper (like the kind used for flooring insulation) to lie together with the plastic material. If I'm painting a big new home and I have to mask the whole floor, the plastic/paper masking system is inexpensive and is effective.

An excellent masking system is crucial whether you're brushing, rolling, or spraying the paint. All you need is masking tape, paper for the outer edge of the floor and baseboard, and a thin layer of plastic material for the glass windows and furniture. 3M makes a good masking system that includes special painter's tape and dispensers with pre-taped clear plastic. If you've ever before spent hours scraping tape adhesive off home windows, you can appreciate advanced masking tapes. Commercial masking dispensers are available at professional painting shops and sometimes at rental shops. If a commercial dispenser is difficult to find, simply buy a roll of heavy paper and use your wrist to carry the masking tape roll.

Some tapes need more stickiness for fixing plastic to rougher textures like walls. Other tapes need to come off without leaving adhesive on windows and smooth areas. Always wait at least four hours before removing tape to avoid tearing the paint. But don't leave tape on for longer than a day or it'll be hard to pull off.

Masking Floors Tricks

In addition to masking off the main areas to be painted, it is also good prevention to mask main traffic areas and wherever you plan to store and mix the paint. Distribute all the necessary drop cloths, then clean the areas you will be taping with vacuum cleaner, foxtail broom, or clean rag, to ensure a tight seal. As you mask, concentrate on getting a clean edge with the tape, and make sure the tape is solidly attached.

Tape and paper dispensers are ideal for masking off the outer edge of an area. They ensure a clean edge along the floor and minimize clean-up. I take advantage of shorter lengths of masking (1 ft. to 2 ft.) for corners and closets. On long, straight runs I favor going corner to corner with one long strip of tape, which reduces the amount of seams that should be taped. Once the perimeter is in place, I take advantage of drop cloths for the remainder of the floor. For greater protection, I always substantially overlap the masked perimeter with the drop cloth. On sides I also double the cloth to the inside, for extra protection and stability.

Obtaining a tight seal with a drop cloth is crucial if you are spraying a room, but safeguarding carpet or flooring with a sealed drop cloth is an excellent plan even if you're just brushing or rolling. A drop cloth will move if it isn't taped where it lies, and you'll finish up on your knees cleaning paint off the floor.

Masking Walls And Fixtures Mistakes

Regardless of how you intend to apply the paint, you will have to mask permanent fixtures such as the ceiling lights, fans, and door knobs. Even though you have excellent hand control, cutting in (edging) the fittings that aren't masked is frustrating, specifically for multiple coats of paint. To mask fixtures, pull off enough newspaper and tape to wrap the fixture, being careful to keep the tape just on the bottom of the fixture (newspapers also makes a good masking material for fixtures). If possible, release the fixture covers and wall mounts to paint under them; this ensures a seamless border.

The quantity of masking that you should do is dependent upon the type of house painting you will be doing. The only real time the wall surfaces need to be masked is when you intend to spray the ceiling and you need to keep the wall surfaces dry, for instance, if the ceiling is getting another color or finish. If the trim is clear coated or you intend to paint only the wall surfaces and ceiling, it's wise to mask all over the trim, especially the windowsills.

How To Mask Windows

The sole time I mask windows is after I plan to spray. Taping glass windows isn't very effective. It takes too much time and paint still gets under the tape, and masking tape has a knack for really adhering to glass.

For interior or exterior windows, I use the same system as for masking wall surfaces. Really the only difference is the fact that masking glass windows usually is faster than masking entire wall surfaces. Masking house windows and wall space is usually done with clear plastic, which lets light into the room and is also handy for covering large areas (paper is best for masking floor surfaces and trim). To measure plastic, I roll it out along the window, cut as straight of a line as is possible, and tape the perimeter of the windowpane. Then it's simply a matter of sticking the clear plastic onto the exposed tape, working from the top down and being careful to keep it straight and level.

Masking paper also works well to safeguard windows, floor, and molding from paint spatters. To protect glass windows, apply masking paper over the top of the window casing. The width of the paper will do to block most of the roller spatter. This same technique protects the floor and molding. If you are assured about your brushing and rolling abilities use 1 ½ inch masking tape instead of masking paper.

No-Fuss Masking For Spraying

Spraying needs that anything not being sprayed should be completely masked. Because spraying requires such intensive masking, wait to mask until you're prepared to spray. Outside surface spraying may need extensive masking, depending on number of colors and whether there are bordering buildings such as fences and electric power lines. When masking for spray, be sure you be detailed. Overspray is hard to regulate, especially under windy conditions. The more you've prepared for overspray, the better. The time spent masking is a lot less than the time you'll have spent touching up afterward. A good seal with masking tape is crucial because sprayed paint gets almost everywhere. Overspray is similar to the casual drip from a brush every so often... one is certain to get from you, no matter how careful you are. Nevertheless, you can minimize overspray by double checking before you spray.

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THE PURPOSE OF STAINS AND PAINTS PART TWO

MORE ABOUT STAINS AND PAINTS - PART II

This is part two of a 2 part series of articles on paints and stains.

Interior Paints Coatings for Every Job

Did you ever wonder about the difference between interior and exterior paints? I once used exterior paint on an inside ceiling, reasoning that it could last longer. It could last longer, but as I then found out when I had to touch up the ceiling only 2 yrs later, exterior paints will discolor on an inside surface. Exterior paints contain special additives made to withstand the outdoors. Interior paints have additives that help the paint dry out to a durable, uniform surface finish.

Most of the advances in painting technology have been with latex. In fact, latex has overtaken oil-based paint in several areas: strength and elasticity, as well as ease of application, clean-up, and disposal. Latexes have fewer VOCs than oil-based paints. Some, such as the Pristine brand created by Benjamin Moore, are made with no VOCs whatsoever. Today's latexes are created with higher quality pigments and binders that provide them more body, so each goes on thicker.

Latexes enjoy quite a bit of recognition for interior applications, especially for walls and ceilings. Alkyds continue to be the professionals' choice for trimming work because oil based paints are easier to paint on detailed areas like molding and trim. However, that traditional approach is gradually changing as better latexes, including Pratt & Lambert's Accolade Interior Acrylic Semi Gloss, are introduced to the market.

Exactly What You Are Looking For - Exterior Paint Coatings

Moisture can be an important consideration for exterior paint selection. Every day a family group of four will generate several gallons of vaporized water inside a house.

Combined with naturally occurring humidity, this may mean a a large amount of moisture moving through the walls and siding. Water is highest in the baths and kitchen. If these rooms aren't sufficiently ventilated, water will migrate through the wall surfaces. Vapor barriers help contain wetness, but vapor always seeks to leave. The structure of a house, the sort of vapor barrier it has, ventilation, and humidity all make selecting the right paint critical.

In wetter climates you need a paint that will let moisture pass through the wood, so water doesn't get trapped under the paint and cause blistering and peeling. Latexes are porous and let moisture go through, unlike alkyd paints, which form a waterproof seal. Alkyds also don't flex with areas that expand and contract, as wood does, especially in colder climates. Latex paints have significantly more elasticity, allowing better adhesion.

I favor using latex on all exterior surfaces, including wood siding, stucco, and masonry. Latexes resist fading much better than most oil-based paints, and they'll cover either oil-based or latex primer (most oils have to go over an alkyd primer).

Latexes do a great job of covering cement. Despite its hardness, concrete is very porous, and oil-based paints don't always stay well. For greatest durability, I recommend latex enamel.

In general, if I know of a latex product that provides superior performance, I will choose it over an oil-based product that should be cleaned with a thinner.

Latex only needs water. Thinners add one more expenditure, are hard to dispose of, and usually end up spattered on my skin or clothes, no matter how careful I am.

Improve Your Interior Staining

You may spend a life time learning about stains and sealers, but there's nothing mysterious about them. The bottom line in figuring out which stain to utilize is to become acquainted with the product lines available. Scan the label, along with any product information you can get, and talk to the personnel at a professional paint shop.

Exterior stains come in oil based, varnish, polyurethane, and water-borne solvents. Stains have less colorant than paint and more solvents, giving them higher wood penetration. Waterproofing is important with exterior stains. Most include built-in sealants to increase sturdiness and help maintain the wood. The color in stains can be pigments, dyes, or both. A semi-transparent stain has more dye for grain penetration. A solid stain has more pigment for surface covering. Pigment is a finely ground coloring that doesn't penetrate the grain as deeply as a dye. That's why a pigmented stain is often used along with a sealer such as urethane or varnish.

Some high quality interior stains have dyes to penetrate and pigments to draw out the richness of the grain. Others contain only pigments, which are much easier to apply, combine, and touch up. Pigmented stains are lighter in color and bring out more of the wood grain. If you are looking for darker results, a dyed stain provides what you would like in one layer (be sure to use a conditioner on porous wood, such as pine and birch wood, to avoid splotching). Dyed stains are extremely difficult to touch up. Every coating eventually will need touching up, so make sure to consider ease of maintenance in your selection of stains. You'll get the best results by using better stains such as Minwax, Pratt & Lambert's Tonetic, Pittsburgh's Rez, or Wood-Kote.

If you wish to stay away from the watery nature of stains, try a gel stain, which had most of the liquid solvent removed. Gels are easy to use. They wipe on, dry out fast, and cover evenly. Since they're colored with pigment, gel stains don't penetrate that well. They're a great choice for porous woods that are tough to coat evenly without a toner. Gel stains do a excellent job of showing off the grain on embossed metal or composite surfaces. I don't recommend using them for hardwoods, which require a good dye stain to emphasize the depth and beauty of the grain.

How We Improved Our Painting With Sanding Sealers

Sanding sealers are interior primers that both penetrate and seal wood. You can use them under clear coats or on top of stains as sealers. Sanding sealers are different from a sealer like polyurethane, which is not designed to prime. They're more like varnish, but diluted with solvents to allow better penetration for priming. The hardness of varnishes and lacquers prevents them from soaking into the wood pores. Sanding sealer can offer a better bond for clear coats.

Shellacs are often added to sanding sealers to fortify the resin and provide an instant drying agent. They also add an amber tone, so if you are utilizing a sanding sealer with shellac, make sure it won't impact the stain. Shellacs tend to yellow aver time and contain toluene, which has a high VOC content. Shellacs are gradually supplying ways to new sanding sealer formulas with lower VOCs and better performance.

Alkyd resin sanding sealers also have high VOCs, although less than their shellac based cousins. Pittsburgh Paints makes a slow drying alkyd resin sanding sealer without shellac known as Rez 77-1. This specific primer/sealer is wonderful for both interiors and exteriors. Pratt & Lambert's Latex Sanding Sealer has very low VOCs, but is strictly for interior wood and must not be used under a water borne polyurethane.

Oil-based sanding sealers can also be utilized to seal exterior wood, especially decking, which is continually subjected to sun and water. For color regularity in areas like decks, you need to completely coat, or back prime, the lumber before it is in place, using the same sealer or stain. Olympic Water Guard, Messmer's UV Plus, Behr's, and most high end deck stains are excellent water repellent sealers that also can be used for priming outside wood.

Method for Wood and Stain Sealers on Interior Wood

Sealers, including varnishes, lacquers, urethanes, and shellacs, are added to the stain itself, applied as a top coat on top of a stain, or used as a clear coat on unstained wood trim. They can be used for just about any type of wood trim, including windows, doorways, and the casing around them. Although you can purchase stain/sealer combinations, they have a tendency to yellow, are difficult to maintain, and don't last as long as separately applied stain and sealers.

Varnishes contain natural oils such as Tung oil, a very hard, durable sealant that can be brushed on and dries slowly. Varnishes are easy to clean and maintain with soap and water followed by a wiped on varnish, which often keeps a wood surface looking ideal for years. Make sure there's no wax in your cleaner, because wax clogs wood pores. I favor using Hope's Tung Oil varnish for a wipe-on maintenance layer. Lacquer is a fast drying sealer that more often than not needs to be sprayed, since it becomes tacky almost immediately.

Polyurethanes do almost everything shellac does, but they're simpler to maintain. While shellacs act like paint, polyurethanes act more like a clear coat that permeates the wood instead of sitting on top of it. Polyurethanes brush on and dry quickly, with little smell and VOCs. They have more or less replaced shellacs as a clear sealer. Another reason urethanes have become such popular sealers is the fact that they don't really require sanding sealers.

The odors associated with many paints and stains can be more than simply offensive, they can be toxic. Solvent based varnishes, lacquers, and shellacs provide a very hard coating but contain very high VOC levels. Water based sealers, like the stains, match the performance of several solvent based sealers, with fewer VOCs. The VOC content of water based sealers such as Sherwin Williams Kern Aqua Lacquer average about 250 grams per liter, or 2 pounds per gallon, half the most common VOCs of oil-based lacquers. The ethers in water based sealers aren't combustible, another advantage, but they still have sufficient VOCs to warrant a respirator.

Although they resist yellowing, water borne sealers such as acrylic latex polyurethanes do have a tendency to raise the grain. They'll also harden or "flash off" quickly at temperatures higher than 60°F. The best working temperature for most water based acrylic latex polyurethanes is between 50°F and 60°F, which lets them flash a bit more slowly. In cases like this, flashing-off simply means that the solvent evaporates and leaves the resins to finish the drying out process. A contractor I know once used water based latex polyurethane sealer that flashed off so fast he could only use it between 5 A.M. and 9 A.M. Anything later than that was too warm.

Minwax makes very good water based polyurethane, as do Pittsburgh, Pratt & Lambert, Benjamin Moore, and others.

Stains and Sealers for the Exterior

Because of their better penetration and sealing power, most exterior stains sold today are oil-based. However, oil-based solid stains peel as they grow older, making them more challenging to maintain. A solid stain is similar to paint: It coats more than it penetrates. A latex solid stain peels less and is also simpler to maintain as it ages. However, I favor oil-based products for semi-transparent stains. Added oil solvents let them penetrate deeper. Some of the better stains on the marketplace include Pittsburgh Solid Color Latex Stain, Messmer's U.V Plus, Moorwood Solid Color Exterior Stain, Sherwin Williams Woodscape stains, Pittsburgh Semi-transparent Exterior Stain, Rez Deck Stain by Pittsburgh, and the Sikkens Cetol system.

Deck stains will often have more solids than a typical outside stain, which make them more durable. I would recommend buying a high-end stain that is semi-transparent or what's called a trans-oxide. Until lately, the major problem with outdoor stains was their low UV resistance, but newer trans-oxides have finely ground metal mixed in for better protection. A higher end deck stain won't require a different sealer overcoat, although you can include one (such as Olympic Water Guard) if you believe extra protection is required to battle moisture and sun exposure. Better deck stains retail for about $35 a gallon and cover 300 to 400 sq. ft.

Stay away from deck stains which contain silicone. Despite their low price, they aren't a good deal. Advertisements for silicone stains and deck sealers often show beaded up water on the deck, and many people are fooled into thinking that this is actually the indication of a successful coating. However, silicone breaks down quickly, usually in just a matter of months, leaving a discolored, waxy coat that is a pain to remove. The broken down silicone also quits repelling water.

"High build" coatings such as Sikkens and Messmers work remarkably well on outside siding, nevertheless they are too soft to be used on your deck. Removing these coatings calls for gallons of wood cleaner and way too much work.

Water based exterior stains, such as Sherwin Williams Woodscapes, combine the advantages of oil-based and latex coatings. They run and drip less than oil based stain, and dry faster, enabling two coatings the same day. Water based stains have the resilience and flexibility of any latex stain, giving them lasting strength. They're a great choice for most applications. However that cleaning up water borne stains calls for work. There are a couple of oil components in the solvent that have to be cleaned. First use soap and water, then alcohol. Ask your seller for specific cleaning guidelines for water based stains, and read the label.

When In Doubt, Ask

If you still have questions about which paint or stain to utilize, please ask people in the know. An experienced, proficient salesperson can answer any questions you might have. Choose a paint store with personnel having at least 10 years of experience in the business. Inquire further what has worked best for your unique application and ask to read a spec sheet on the merchandise in question.

The answers you get will depend on whom you ask. A paint store will attempt to sell you one their own products, after all, that is why they're in business. Painting contractors may not be impartial, either. They need to sell their experience. I get tons of calls from people needing assistance with their painting problems. Most painters, including myself, don't object to giving an hour of our time, but if you need in depth answers, consider finding a contractor for a professional analysis. Rates vary, but I usually charge about $60 for a written and oral analysis, depending on the driving time included. A paid analysis will tell you whether you should paint, stain, or re-side, as well as which finish might be best for finishing your project. Each painting job has unique conditions that warrant specific answers.

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Lake Stevens WA 98258

(425) 512-7400

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Exactly What You Are Looking For - Paint Coatings for Every Job

Finally, Paint Coatings for Each Job

The right type of coating is vital. If you pick the wrong paint, it won't matter how much effort and money you spend on your job. Too many flawlessly great paint jobs deteriorate quickly because poor quality primer and paint were used.

A dependable rule of thumb is to complement the existing coating. If you're painting or staining on top of latex paint, recoat with latex. You might have all sorts of choices if the material is uncoated, nevertheless, you still need to consider weather, maintenance, and durability to determine the best covering for the job.

No-Fuss Painting Using Primers

Primer is the unsung hero of any quality paint job. It determines how well the finish is protected and exactly how long the paint can last. Knowing when to use primers screws up painters about as much as which primers to use. Basically, you will need to use a primer when you are coating a new or bare surface; changing colors, textures, or finishes; or making a surface more uniform. About the sole time you don't have to prime is if you are recoating with the same paint and finish over a sound paint, for example, a flat latex paint over another flat latex paint.

To make sure of compatibility, choose something that's part of your paint system. By paint system I mean a primer and top coating manufactured by the same company. The labels of better paints always recommend specific primers and top coats for various materials and conditions. If you don't want to cope with reading the fine print, ask to view the spec, or data sheet, on a specific primer. In case a spec sheet isn't available, ask to see what's known as a “specifier’s guide,” although these guides probably have significantly more information than you will ever need and you might need help translating a few of the terms and specifications.

Primers form an even base for the top coatings by penetrating, sealing, and bonding to all or any types of bare surfaces. Without first priming a new or reconditioned surface, you will discover that the top coatings end up flaking off much sooner than you would expect. Even though you can use additives such as Emulsabond, don't make the mistake of thinking that primers are optional, or can be made out of diluted paint.

Usually in one coat most primers smooth out surfaces and places which may have been scraped and sanded. Sometimes a surface will require a second coating of primer to ensure an even undercoat, but often one is enough. The house pictured below is an example of a project where two coatings of primer were used. The bare wood siding was primed with an oil-based primer for extra adhesion. Then, a latex primer was applied over all the siding to give it a smooth base for the top layers. Some climates almost demand another coat of primer. I've heard about one contractor in Florida who always double primes to ensure that his work last. If you live near salt water, I would recommend that you take into account doing the same.

Primers highlight surface conditions by pointing out imperfections such as loose fibers in drywall and raised wood grain in trim. You might feel that a primer would even out a surface, but if you run your hand over a primed portion of wood trim it always feels rough. That's because primer causes out loose grain as it penetrates. After a dried primer has been lightly sanded, the smoothed surface is ready for coats. (Here's a tip: In the event that you tint your primer the color of the top coat, you can actually quicken the painting process by lowering the amount of top layers needed. Tinting is mainly used for color changes, although it is also handy for areas like bare drywall.)

Solution for Priming Interior Surfaces and Ceilings

I recommend using latex primers wherever possible. Ask your paint dealer for advice on the best primer for interior trouble spots, such as the laundry room and bath, that require a good sealant and a water-resistant primer. I've always used alkyd primers in wetter areas of the home, although there are great latex primers that seal about as well. I prime most drywall interiors with latex, especially the sleeping rooms, living room, and closets. I usually spray a latex primer on new construction because new structures have satisfactory vapor barriers. Also, I could paint an oil-based top coating over latex primer.

Older houses demand room-by-room decisions on what primer to make use of. If the home doesn't have a vapor barrier or good ventilation, you will require a primer that seals the wall surfaces and keeps water from getting between the surface and the paint.

Latex stain blockers and sealers can be the response to priming wet rooms inside your home. These quick drying primers help condition areas with water, cigarette smoke, and tannin spots, plus they can be recoated rapidly, sometimes within the hour. Pittsburgh's Seal Grip is a superb latex stain blocker with few VOCs and all the features of an oil-based stain blocker. Quick drying alkyd primers such as Kilz have pigmented shellac (with high VOCs) that also functions as a stain killer and sealer, but I don't recommend these for latex top coats, the shellac might show through the latex. In case your latex has what's known as “good hold" or hiding properties, it will maintain an even sheen over primer. You are able to assure compatibility by using a high quality latex stain blocker such as Seal Grip.

With regards to walls, remember that plaster and drywall are different. Plaster is highly alkaline, in particular when it's new, and it can leach alkaline salts if it isn't properly sealed. There are plenty of primers you can use on plaster, depending on its condition and on the top coat and finish that you've planned.

Drywall is much less alkaline than plaster. I prime drywall with a latex primer, unless the top coatings will be an oil-based paint, in which case I'll use an alkyd primer. (I know that there are perfectly good latex primers for any type of top coat, but old patterns are hard to let go of.) When painting new drywall, I will sometimes add joint compound to the primer for just a little texture. Mixed with primer, joint compound also helps level over any sanding markings or roughness.

Method For Priming Interior Wood

When selecting primer, you should consider the type and condition of the surface, the sort of paint (alkyd, latex, or epoxy) that is planned for the finish coats, and the kind of finish (flat, semi-gloss, or glossy).

Most often I prime interior wood trim with an exterior alkyd primer, which seals new wood and replaces lost wetness in older wood. There's also good water-based enamel primers for interior wood. Special conditions, such as the high moisture common in bathing rooms and kitchens, may call for a breathable latex primer if you can't prime all around the wood. If you can completely prime the wood before it goes up, an alkyd primer will protect most of the trim from water. Assess conditions like these carefully and seek the advice of a professional if your job has many different variables

Primers For the Exterior

Even though I favor latex paint for the exterior, I still would prefer to use alkyd primers on exterior wood. They simply do a much better job of priming bare wood. I'll use an alkyd primer if I know that the home does not have any major internal vapor problems and that the wood is in good condition (which usually means that it is new), especially if I had access to the siding and trim before it is attached to the building. It's always best to seal all around the wood (but not the ends) to provide each piece its own vapor barrier.

New redwood and cedar siding, as well as hardboard siding, needs special attention. Redwood and cedar will bleed tannins for a long time, even if the timber has air-dried for a few months. Before priming, you should wash out the tannin with a light detergent, and follow this with a good rinsing. Redwood and cedar are rather porous, so you may need to hold back a day or two to let them dry out. There's a good chance that more tannin resin will seep to the surface, so avoid priming with latex because the resin will bleed through. Instead, use two coats of any alkyd primer/sealer, and use high quality latex for the top coatings. Any staining that occurs after that can usually be washed off with special timber cleaners.

Hardboard siding, new or already coated, presents a special challenge. The lack of grain or anything resembling a porous surface makes hardboards such as Masonite difficult to bond to. If the wood is new then pressure wash and rinse it. If water still beads up, wash it again to remove all the wax. Seal new hardboard with a specially developed hardboard primer/sealer, such as Pittsburgh Paints Permanizer Plus Wood Stabilizer. When blended with a top coat, Emulsabond makes a great hardboard primer. These and other high quality sealers also work well on metal or vinyl siding, plywood veneers, textured wood, and other composite sidings.

Amazing Primers For Metals

Every metallic should be cleaned of oil, grease, rust, or any other residue before you prime it, so the primer gets thorough contact with the area. Most metal areas can be cleaned with a good thinner. Galvanized metals sometimes come from the factory with a stabilizer that can be tough to eliminate, and may need more than just thinner. Consult with your paint store if you would like to be certain a primer will work on new galvanized metallic surfaces.

You can find primers for each and every type of metal. Ferrous metals, manufactured from iron and steel, should be primed with a rust inhibitor. Rust is almost impossible to completely remove unless you sandblast it, and even then small pockets of rust can stay that will grow back again under an unsealed surface or the wrong primer. Rust inhibitors totally seal the outer layer from contact with air. Some companies make reference to these primers as direct-to-rust or direct-to-metal (DTM) primers. Smaller projects like handrails can be primed with aerosol rust inhibitors such as Pratt & Lambert's Effecto Spray Enamel, which I've experienced success using.

Other metals, including copper, aluminum, bronze, and brass, should be coated with zinc-chromate primer. Some paint companies have a specific primer for new galvanized metal. Older galvanized metal can be primed with a rust inhibitor like those mentioned above.

Much like any layer, the more time the primer has to flow and contact the surface, the better the adhesion. Quick setting primers don't flow much whatsoever and stay right where they're applied, for good or for bad. A clean surface is particularly important when you use an instant drying primer. Note that some paint manufacturers recommend cleaning metals (and most other surfaces) with a thinner, while others recommend against using any type of solvent cleaner. Scan the directions carefully.

A vintage technique that still is effective for cleaning new or old metals is washing the outer layer with a one-to-one mix of vinegar and water. Vinegar is an all-purpose, inexpensive cleaner that will also etch a steel material if mixed at that ratio. Etching metal works like sanding wood. It provides surface "teeth" for better adhesion. That same ratio is convenient for new rain gutters or uncoated aluminum siding. However, it should not be utilized to completely clean galvanized metals, because the vinegar will harm the galvanizing.

Method For Priming Masonry

Whether it's inside or out, masonry usually requires a primer or sealer that will resist water and alkalis. Alkalis are salts that leach out over time, leaving a chalky stain called efflorescence. The cause of the efflorescence, usually moisture, must be resolved for alkali-resistant primers and sealers to help. New masonry has to cure for 90 days before you prime and paint it, especially if it is highly alkaline, like stucco.

Sherwin Williams has a masonry primer called Loxon that withstands alkalinity up to pH 13; it could be painted on masonry that is a week old. Stucco, which is actually coloured mortar and filled with lime, is an excellent surface for Loxon, as is new plaster or poured concrete. Pittsburgh Paints also offers a primer for new, high-alkaline masonry, called Speedhide Alkali Resistant Primer; it's provided for oil-based paint. You also can add this primer to cured masonry with a latex top coat, but it's important that you use latex only on low alkaline masonry. In these situations I've had good luck adding Emulsabond to the latex for extra adhesion. I recommend it for nearly all masonry applications.

Etching with muriatic acid used to be the only way to speed up the curing time of concrete. You could still etch if you are so willing, although if I never see another box of muriatic acid, that would be just fine. (If it etches concrete, imagine how well it etches epidermis!) Etching requires a bucket, hose, brush, gloves, and complete eye and skin protection, don't forget a respirator, especially when you mix the acid with the water. Important: Add the acid to water, not the other way around. If you add drinking water to acid it'll splash and burn off anything it contacts. And blend it in the correct ratio, usually one to three. Make sure you have brushes, sponges, towels, and least one 5 gallon bucket of clean water for emergencies, and another 5 gallon bucket for rinsing.

Reconditioning older, peeling cement floors can be a chore. It's best to keep them well managed and recoat them regularly, before they need to be completely redone. Concrete flooring in really sad condition should be sandblasted, or you may use a new system called Peel-Away that makes prepping masonry a bit easier (it's still no picnic). If the surface is in good condition, prep the floor and remove any trace of grease or wax with a good thinner.

For new concrete floors, I would recommend a concrete stain manufactured by H&C or Okon; they come in water based and silicone acrylic. My preference is the water based stain, since silicone is a wax that eventually will wash off. Concrete stain penetrates and seals without needing scraping or sandblasting, and resists fading better than a top covering like latex.

Older, pre-painted cement floors need to be repainted with a similar top coat, whether latex or alkyd. A latex top coating is best applied over a typical concrete sealer, but Emulsabond also is effective. An oil-based top layer requires an oil-based enamel or epoxy concrete conditioner. I'd add Penetrol to the primer for an extended lasting bond.

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Facts to Consider When Hiring a Painting Contractor

Consider Finding a Painting Contractor

Undertaking a paint job always calls for some forethought beyond color selection and decorative themes. Painting a room is not difficult. In fact, it's nearly the perfect do-it-yourself home improvement project. Nevertheless it is a task that places demands on your time, finances, and skills. So before you haul out the brushes, paint cans, and ladders, ask yourself a few pre-determined questions.

• How much preparation will I need to do and will I have enough time to do it?

• Am I up to the difficult parts of the work, such as climbing ladders and moving furniture?

• Do I have the patience to learn a different skill, and can I accept that my initial progress might be slow and somewhat frustrating?

• Will I be able to live with a house left unfinished if I am called away or when I must return to work after the weekend?

• Are there parts of the job I can do but simply don't enjoy? Are there parts of the work I could do myself and parts I want to contract out?

If your answers to these questions make you decide to contract all or some of the project, then go about gathering bids and searching for a contractor methodically.

First, talk to friends and neighbors and get their tips about contractors they have used. Have a look at the quality of the work done for people you know so you can make sure the grade of the job meets your standards.

Then, contact at least three of the top contractors to go over the work you want to have done. Meet with each of them individually to look at the job and discuss the precise job details.

Questions for Your Painting Contractor

• For each surface (including trim, stucco, aluminum siding, walls, and so forth), ask what will be done to get it ready for priming including which type and brand of primer. Then ask your contractor about the finish coat, like the type and brand of the paint, how it'll be applied, its quality, and the number of coats. Make sure the contractor will use high quality paint. A quality acrylic latex paint might cost more initially, but its toughness will save money in the long run.

• For exterior work, ask what will be done to safeguard landscape plants. For interior work, learn how furniture will be protected and moved.

• Ask when the contractor can begin the job and exactly how long it will take. It's also advisable to know what remedy will be available if the work is not completed on time.

• Discuss the guarantee on the job, how long it is, whether it covers both labor and materials, what kind of failures are covered (peeling, cracking, fading), and exactly what will be done to rectify such failures.

• Make sure the contractor is bonded and insured. Bonding will replace your costs if the contractor fails to complete the job. Insurance will cover any injury to any of the workers. Without such insurance, you could be liable for such injuries. Insurance could also cover damages done to your house.

• Ask each contractor for the names and contact information for previous customers. Call some of the references and ask when you can see the contractor's work.

• Get written estimates from at least 3 contractors. Be skeptical of any bids that are significantly higher or lower than the others. Bids from reputable contractors are usually fairly close to each other for the same work. The estimate should break down material and labor costs and show payment terms.

Before making your decision, consider the contractor's demeanor. He or she should be responsive, punctual, and business like when returning calls or arriving for a scheduled appointment. The contractor should take time to reply to your questions and explain details of the work.

Picking a Painting Contractor

Once you've selected a specialist painter, that contractor should submit a formal written contract for the work (unless the bid or estimate had already been in contractual form). The document should spell out everything you have discussed with the contractor about your work. It should specify these things:

• the work to be achieved

• the materials to be used

• the starting and completion dates and remedies for failure to stay on schedule

• methods for resolving disputes

• procedures for making changes (change orders are alterations to the contract to which both parties must agree)

• evidence of insurance and bonding and licensing if required by local ordinance

Before you make final payment, inspect the work with the contractor, making notes about whatever needs correction (proper coverage, cleanup, etc). The contractor should correct the problems before you make final payment.

Sound Quality Painting

824 90th Dr SE suite B

Lake Stevens WA 98258

(425) 512-7400

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If You Want a Painting Contractor

When You Need a Painting Contractor

Undertaking a paint job always calls for some forethought beyond color selection and decorative themes. Painting a room is not difficult. In fact, it's just about the perfect do-it-yourself house improvement project. Nevertheless it is a job that places demands on your time, financial limits, and skills. So before you haul out the brushes, paint cans, and ladders, consider a few pre-determined questions.

• How much preparation will I need to do and will I have enough time to do it?

• Am I up to the difficult elements of the work, such as climbing ladders and moving furniture?

• Do I have the patience to learn a different skill, and may I accept that my initial progress might be slow and somewhat frustrating?

• Will I have the ability to live with a house left unfinished if I am called away or when I have to return to work after the weekend?

• Are there areas of the job I could do but simply don't enjoy? Is there parts of the work I could do myself and parts I wish to contract out?

In case your answers to these questions make you opt to contract all or a portion of the work, then start gathering bids and finding a contractor methodically.

First, talk with friends and neighbors and get their suggestions about contractors they may have used. Have a look at the quality of the work done for people you know so you can make sure the grade of the work meets your standards.

Then, contact at least three of the most notable contractors to discuss the work you want to have done. Meet with all of them individually to understand the work and discuss the specific work details.

Questions for Your Painting Contractor

• For each surface (including trim, stucco, aluminum siding, walls, etc), ask exactly what will be done to get it ready for priming including which type and brand of primer. Then ask your contractor about the finish coat, like the type and brand of the paint, how it'll be applied, its quality, and the number of coats. Make certain the contractor use high quality paint. A quality acrylic latex paint will cost more initially, but its durability will save money in the long run.

• For exterior work, ask exactly what will be done to protect landscape plants. For interior work, find out how furniture will be protected and moved.

• Ask when the contractor can begin the job and how long it will require. It's also advisable to know what remedy will be available if the work is not completed as scheduled.

• Discuss the guarantee on the job, just how long it is, whether it covers both labor and materials, what kind of failures are covered (peeling, cracking, fading), and what will be done to rectify such failures.

• Make sure the contractor is bonded and insured. Bonding will replace your costs if the contractor does not complete the job. Insurance covers any injuries suffered by any of the workers. Without such insurance, you might be liable for such injuries. Insurance may also cover damage done to your premises.

• Ask each contractor for the names and contact information for previous customers. Call some of the references and ask when you can see the contractor's work.

• Get written estimates from at least three contractors. Be wary of any bids that are significantly higher or less than others. Bids from reputable contractors are usually fairly near to the other painter’s for the same work. The estimate should show material and labor costs and show payment terms.

Before making your decision, consider the contractor's demeanor. She or he should be responsive, punctual, and business like when returning calls or arriving for an appointment. The contractor should remember to answer your questions and describe details of the work.

Choose a Painting Contractor

Once you've selected a specialist painter, that contractor should submit a formal written contract for the job (unless the bid or estimate had already been in contractual form). The document should spell out everything you've discussed with the contractor about your painting. It should specify these things:

• the work to be done

• the materials to be utilized

• the starting and completion dates and remedies for failure to stay on schedule

• methods for resolving disputes

• procedures for making changes (change orders are alterations to the contract to which both parties must agree)

• evidence of insurance and bonding and licensing if required by local ordinance

Before you make final payment, inspect the job with the contractor, making notes about whatever needs correction (proper coverage, cleanup, etc). The contractor should correct the issues before you make final payment.

Sound Quality Painting

824 90th Dr SE suite B

Lake Stevens WA 98258

(425) 512-7400

Sound Quality Painting

Best Painters Lake Stevens

Google Map

Painter Lake Stevens

Painting Lake Stevens

 Painter Lake Stevens

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